Host an Event Volunteer Join Tickets

Support the plant database you love!

Q. Who is Mr. Smarty Plants?

A: There are those who suspect Wildflower Center volunteers are the culpable and capable culprits. Yet, others think staff members play some, albeit small, role. You can torture us with your plant questions, but we will never reveal the Green Guru's secret identity.

Help us grow by giving to the Plant Database Fund or by becoming a member

Did you know you can access the Native Plant Information Network with your web-enabled smartphone?

Share

Ask Mr. Smarty Plants

Ask Mr. Smarty Plants is a free service provided by the staff and volunteers at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center.

Search Smarty Plants
See a list of all Smarty Plants questions

Please forgive us, but Mr. Smarty Plants has been overwhelmed by a flood of mail and must take a break for awhile to catch up. We hope to be accepting new questions again soon. Thank you!

Need help with plant identification, visit the plant identification page.

 
rate this answer
1 rating

Sunday - February 07, 2016

From: Utopia, TX
Region: Southwest
Topic: Planting, Trees
Title: Fertilizing Newly Planted Trees
Answered by: Anne Van Nest

QUESTION:

Back in November, I planted 20 trees on rocky, caliche slopes around my house outside of Utopia, Texas. The trees were 45 gallon Monterrey Oaks and Texas Redbuds. I have also installed a drip irrigation system to each tree. What type of fertilizer should I use to promote growth?

ANSWER:

Barbara Medford answered a previous Mr. Smarty Plants question about fertilzing native trees in Texas and here is her response ... Our vote would be "none." One of the big reasons for using plants native to North America and to the area in which they are being grown is that those natives are already acclimated by millions of years to the soils, climate, temperatures and rainfall in their area. We always recommend that the soil be checked, especially in terms of drainage, as most trees do not do well with wet feet, and too much moisture without sufficient drainage can cause rots and fungi to move in. We do like to see compost or other organic matter worked into the soil in the area where a tree is going to be planted, and not just the hole. As those trees get bigger and the roots move farther out, good soil with the amendments will help them to continue to grow.

There are experts who recommend no amendments to the soil at all, because when the roots of the new tree begin to get out beyond their original hole, the real world, or the dirt thereof, could be a terrible shock. This is personal choice, but we like to give little trees a boost, partucularly in the alkaline clay soils of Central Texas.

Here is another take on that from a previous Mr. Smarty Plants answer: "A standard fertilizer should be fine. One landscaper I interviewed advised an 8-2-4 compost-based fertilizer, meaning 8% nitrogen, 2% phosphorus, and 4% potassium. Others weren't so specific as to proportions, saying only "standard" or "regular."
All my informants said that if the tree is a naturally occurring specimen that has survived on its own without human intervention and still looks good, nothing may be needed. However, if the tree is now surrounded by new construction that may have damaged its roots, a fertilizer with significant phosphorus for root growth will help it adjust. Significant phosphorus will also be needed if your tree is a newly planted purchase that you want to encourage to spread its roots beyond its root ball.
All said that surface applications are best. Spread the fertilizer from near, but not on, the trunk, to a foot past the extent of the leaves. A couple of friends of mine have maintained beautiful live oaks for two decades with little more than compost applied two or three inches thick from near the base of the tree to just past the dripline. A deep, slow, soaking watering just after you fertilize will insure that the nutrients get to the roots. Doing it just before a good rain is even better. Whatever you use should be applied once or twice a year. The most important time to fertilize is in early spring, just before new foliage appears, to help fuel the new growth.  A second application in early summer can help fortify the tree during the harsh Texas heat. So, take your pick; the point in both of these answers is that Nature is already doing a good job, you can give Her a little boost if you wish.

 

More Planting Questions

Damage to yucca in San Marcos TX
October 18, 2010 - Dear Mr. Smarty Plants, thank you for helping me with my buffalo grass is San Marcos TX back in the spring, my lawn is gorgeous thanks to you! I really need your help as someone sabotaged my beauti...
view the full question and answer

Annual plants for weed control in Pflugerville,TX?
September 14, 2010 - Can you suggest an annual or summer-dormant plant to mix with Dalea frutescens? The object is to discourage the spring-emerging weeds that precede the leafing out of the Dalea, so it should finish bl...
view the full question and answer

Pollinator garden for Belen NM
May 16, 2012 - Trying to set up a flower garden to attract bees and butterflies. Can you tell me what would be best to grow. I live in Belen, NM.
view the full question and answer

Male and female Ilex decidua ( Possumhaw) trees
May 18, 2015 - I was excited to finally find and purchase a male and female possum haw pair via Amazon. (Berry Poppins variety). They were marked male-female and are thriving. But the male has little flowers and the...
view the full question and answer

Suggestions for flowerbed in Mesquite TX
June 17, 2011 - I live in Mesquite and am new to the area. I am trying to make the flowerbed in the front of my house look better. I've planted some yellow roses and red roses but would like some perennial that bloo...
view the full question and answer

Support the Wildflower Center by Donating Online or Becoming a Member today.